Web Forum for Singer Cars

the original was just a piece of stamped steel, I can't believe that they are that hard to make. The club had them made at one time and it should be something we can re-make if there is enough interest. I still have one NOS end cap somewhere, I am not sure where it is but I know its around somewhere and could be used to make more. I can probably find a few rusty used ones in the yard also.

Hi,

I had the same problem with these running board rubber ends. I actually got some of these parts from the UK but they were badly re-chromed and bumpy originals.

I then decided to fabricate a new set myself and used stainless steel as I have used on some other brightwork parts I have fabricated myself, like the engine compartment side grilles. The great this in stainless steel is that you can weld the parts and after you grind and polish the weld seam it is indistinguishable from the base material. Of course you need to use proper stainless steel on your MIG welder.

Here are some pictures of the fabrication process. From right, welded parts, after initial grinding, after some sore grinding with finer grid and on the left polished part. Detailed view. Unfortunately I did not find a good picture of the rubber strips installed but here is one. I'll try to remember to take one tomorrow. Regards,
Pekka

those look GREAT !!!

I like the idea of using Stainless as my idea was just plain steel, welded up and chromed, this is even better.

I have just received a sample of rubber for the running boards of my pre-warrier but I know the same section is used on Roadsters. It is in 70-shore EPDM (similar hardness to car tyre) and looks great. It looks close to the original sample that Phillip showed. If anybody wants some I suggest that they PM me. The price will be about £10 per metre.
Now, if only Pekka would let me have some of those SS ends!

Brian

Could anyone please explain the complete design as my car does not have the strips.

From the earlier posts I understand that a steel strip is inserted inside the rubber strip. Since the rubber strip has a "lipped channel" cross section, is the steel strip having a corresponding "T" cross section to sit inside the rubber strip?

Is the steel strip screwed on to the running board first, the rubber strip drawn over it and the end caps attached finally?

How are the end caps fixed on to the running board? In the photos of the black running board with strips fixed and the fabricated end caps I could not see any fixing screws or drilled holes for the screws, respectively. So I was wondering how the end caps are kept in place.

Thanks

I did a lot of improvising when I did my restoration and this is definitely not original but it has worked well for the past 10 years. I used stainless steel banding that was intended for use as a hose clamp and I believe mine came from Harbor Freight. I drilled holes to match the holes in my running board and inserted toilet flange bolts (T-track bolts would probably work as well) in the holes. I then slid the banding and bolts into the rubber installed the end caps and bolted the assembly to my running board. I think that I had to do a little grinding on the bolt heads to reduce the thickness of the flange. If you think that you can do a Singer restoration without repurposing household items, GOOD LUCK!

Mark Thompson

Thanks, Mark.

After reading your post I now have an idea about the steel strip and the fitment. The strip is not having a "T" section but it is a plain metal strip. The metal strip does not touch the running board (unlike the MG TCs), it is the rubber strip that sits on the running board and the metal strip is secured to the running board using small T bolts that passes through the space between the lips of the rubber strip. The end caps are also secured to the running board using T bolts and they sit directly on the running board. Correct?

Regards,
Mohan

That is correct, at least it is for my installation.
Mark

Hi Mohan,

You can read my full description of the design and installation of the original running board strips in this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1494

It is about the pre-war running board rubber, but the design is the same as the Roadster and the photos I posted are of and original Roadster item.

You are correct that the flat metal strip runs in the T section of the rubber, but it is held in place by tabs stamped out in the metal strip and simply put through the hole in the running board and then bent over. Mark's method using T screws is certainly more durable and makes it easier to remove the strip from the car.

Hope that helps...

Thanks, Phillip.

The link you provided is really good. The design features are very clear now and your comments are very helpful.