Barn find 52 4AD

[Peter McKercher]

Another dealer photo from Vaughan Singer Motors. Based on all the dealer shots I have, the piping was red, no matter what the body colour.

[wmcvey]

Thanks for finding and posting the photo. I really would like to bring her back to the blue it was originally, so much nicer than white.
Have a completely different question for anyone. Those louvers on the side of the bonnet were missing and I got a pair from another member on the forum. Now my question is, how are the louver positioned ? As in top or bottom. There's a curved part to each of the four louvers, does the curved portion go downward ?

[Mark Thompson]

I am not clear on what you are asking? Which way would best shed water and keep rain out of the engine compartment?
Mark

[wmcvey]

I am not clear on what you are asking? Which way would best shed water and keep rain out of the engine compartment?
Mark

I think a pic is helpful here. Would have nothing to do with rain, it's more of a cosmetic thing. All four louvers on each side have a curved end on the outside of each. And since these are symmetrical front to rear, you could install them ether way. But there's got to be a right way, if someone could check theirs maybe ? I first thought the curved side was to the top, but my restore friend is saying no the curved side always is to the bottom.
I know there a bit rusted, but will do a de-rust treatment first then decide if their getting re-chromed or painted.

[mikeyr]

short side on the bottom

[Phillip]

Bill,

Photo 2 shows the bottom...at the bottom.

The louvres are supposed to look smooth on the top edge as they round over the curl. So...as Mike mentions, the "shorter" side faces down.

These louvres are pretty poor quality from new. The chrome is pretty mediocre and the way they are fixed with tabs that are bent over inside means the tabs usually break off when you try to remove them!

[wmcvey]

Thanks for everyone's input, so my friend was correct after all. And agree they are in bad shape. I wasn't too happy when I got them, but it's what I have so I'll have to do my best at restoring them.

[wmcvey]

Have a question on fluids. I've read the the forum that the antifreeze needs to be per-OAT, and to use the IAT type, correct ?
And on the engine oil I'm just assuming we need to use a straight weight oil like a SAE 30, and not a multi-weight oil, as they were first introduced in the 50's and none of the documentation mentions using a multi-weight oil ?
And lastly, the break fluid. I can't find any mention of what type to use in the system. Thanks,

[mikeyr]

regular old brake fluid, I always used Castrol DOT4 or Girling LMA whichever I could find at the parts store.
I also used Castrol 20-50 in my 4AD, but I only had the car 34 years so I can't tell you how long the motor could last with that oil.
For coolant, I didn't know better (seriously) and thought they were all the same and bought the cheapest at the store, I know now it should be something else.

[wmcvey]

regular old brake fluid, I always used Castrol DOT4 or Girling LMA whichever I could find at the parts store.
I also used Castrol 20-50 in my 4AD, but I only had the car 34 years so I can't tell you how long the motor could last with that oil.
For coolant, I didn't know better (seriously) and thought they were all the same and bought the cheapest at the store, I know now it should be something else.

On the antifreeze requirements I was going by a post on another thread in the pre-war section and they were talking about a car from the 30s. But the antifreeze issue was saying any car made before 1998 had this issue with the type of antifreeze. Here's that quote from that thread.

"Cars made before 1998 usually need antifreeze that isn't OAT-based and that contains silicate. Use IAT antifreeze which is readily available & usually marked ' for older engines'. Draining and refilling a car every winter is not a good idea. Every time you add fresh water to the engine you are adding oxygen that combines with the metal to form rust.
The oil should also be suitable for older cars. The cam lobes on old engines require a zinc additive to combat high friction. Halfords sell an oil fror classic cars but the only oil I know that specifies high zinc content is Rye oil which has ZDDP content of 1500 ppm."

[Cincy singer 9a]

Granted that mine is a 4A, I've ordered up (and most likely paying too much) Castrol classic xl 30 motor oil which Castrol claims has all the vitamins and minerals a growing mechanical baby needs to go on.

On the subject of oil.... I've got several oil drips from my car including one small river from one of the spark plug openings. When I place my hand over the oil fill there seems to be a lot of pressure against it. I'm thinking there may be too much oil pressure building and should there be a relief hole someplace that has been covered or blocked during previous refurbs? Some one previously replaced the valve cover with a chrome one.

I also have a weak trafficator that doesn't fully deploy. Anyone know what parts are interchangeable with other cars if I cant find the right actuator?

[bitsobrits]

The pressure you are feeling sounds more like excessive blowby, typically from worn or stuck piston rings. Oil pressure would have no impact on crankcase pressure. Have you done a compression or leak down test?

[tvdwerf]

Granted that mine is a 4A, I've ordered up (and most likely paying too much) Castrol classic xl 30 motor oil which Castrol claims has all the vitamins and minerals a growing mechanical baby needs to go on.

On the subject of oil.... I've got several oil drips from my car including one small river from one of the spark plug openings. When I place my hand over the oil fill there seems to be a lot of pressure against it. I'm thinking there may be too much oil pressure building and should there be a relief hole someplace that has been covered or blocked during previous refurbs? Some one previously replaced the valve cover with a chrome one.

I also have a weak trafficator that doesn't fully deploy. Anyone know what parts are interchangeable with other cars if I cant find the right actuator?

I think you need the Lucas SF80 trafficator, not a big issue to get. My Morris Minor from 1951 has the same.

Just for sure, check the small pipe on the right front side of the 9 engine if he is open.
When blocked, you get an overpressure who tries to get out on places you don't want

[wmcvey]

Thanks for everyone's help with my restore project. My mechanic friend is starting the motor CPR next week after not being run for over 30 years. So next on my list of things I need to find, the brake parts. As in wheel cylinder kits, the brake shoes, the small brake parts in the wheel (springs and things), and those rubber brake hoses. I hoping there's a one stop shop for all these thing ? Any help would be appreciated. Once we get into it I'm hoping the shoes / drums, and small brake parts are good as they are, but I'm sure the rubber parts (the hoses and wheel cylinder items) will need renewed.

[mikeyr]

wheel cylinders are Autin Healy 100/4, you can buy kits or brand new ones. Don't remember what the hoses came from, I want to say Austin A30 but it was too many years ago.