46 to 49 roadster restoration Australia ladies

[Josandra]

Hi jeans..now we not sure about rubber after purchasing..will have a rethink..

Been busy with steering wheel..sand epoxy cracks..sand sand & more sand..
smooth as..undercoat & painted..just a little more sanding..

Transmission cover just about complete.

Hate fiberglass but hate that ugly box more.

Cardboard mold worked a treat

Tried a temp door skin..happy with top curve bend..have ordered hand seamer for hem edge.

[Josandra]

[Josandra]

[ColinB]

The wheel looks great Joanne, you are really pushing on!

[Phillip]

Looking really good!

Interesting that the wheel is the type usually seen on the A Roadster 46 to 49!

[tvdwerf]

My both '50 4A has the same, so I think it was the 4A standard with the horn push with trafficator switch integrated.
Without the trafficator switch is the steering wheel and horn push the same as the '51 Morris minor in my barn.

[Josandra]

Thank you guys..

We pushing on...time to try and start this engine.

[jeans_old_man]

You two are amazing. I just love the inovative way you tackle things. Can't wait until the next installment.

[Phillip]

@Teake...

Absolutely...all Roadsters from 46 to 51 had the steering wheel with the horn and trafficator switch in the middle.

The type with the cover plate in the middle was introduced with the 4AB. Initially these had a plain center but later had a chrome-rimmed "SM" logo that looked more like a horn button but wasn't.

Although all are basically a very similar design right through to the end of Roadster production, they each have different elements that distinguish them.

All the A and 4A wheels are held on the steering column shaft by a keyway. All 4AB / 4AC / 4AD are located by splines.

The A series rim and spokes are a different design from the 4A and the 4AB/C/D are slightly different again. Mainly in rim details / finger grip design and spoke spacing.

All were black except for a batch near the end of production that were cream.

I only know this as I happened to own very original A, 4A and 4AD Roadsters at the same time.

Hmmm...guess this note really makes me a nerdy 'Anorack'.
Lol!

[Josandra]

Thank you Brian..we can’t wait ..love the challenge..

Phillip you are a wealth of knowledge..your information is priceless.

We are having a tad trouble with doors..

Not sure why somebody would throw in old mg td door latch locks but there no good..

Found the door lock mechanism at vintage car parts..$174 U.K. dollars each.

Would anybody have a spare set they are willing to part with a bit more reasonable please.

They have the door hinge pin spring & balls @ striker plate

Door handles interior & exterior.

[Phillip]

Wow, you are making great strides on the restoration! Amazing!

Thanks for the kind words. Although I'm pretty much focused on pre-war Singers, I've owned and restored a number of Roadsters over the years. My first was purchased just as I turned 14 ( a '51 4A ) and it sparked a love-affair with Singers that's been my passion ever since, so I learned a lot. Roadsters were imported into Canada and the main distributor was in Montreal so there are more here than you might think.

Those steel door hinges with the ball and screw pivot were introduced on the 4A I believe. '46 to 49 cars ( and probably R Series pre-war ) had cast brass hinges with a fixed steel pin. Repairing those requires knocking the pin out and boring the hinge assembly to over-size to account for wear and then fitting a larger diameter pin to suit. Same goes for the pre-war Nine Sports and Le Mans Singers as the hinges are fundamentally the same design but smaller.

Look forward to the next installment...

[Josandra]

Thank you Phillip love all the information.

We decided to use the mg td latches...can’t justify $700 for door latches.

We bought a hand seamer but won’t do closed hem neat without damage.

So purchased Wuko Mini Disc-O-Bender 4010 to look professional..give us half a chance.

Easy to justify with the thought of panel beater prices around here.

Ordered goodies.

[Josandra]

While waiting for parts thought we might try & start this baby.

Just flushed & cleaned radiator to test engine..not many leaks but will attend to it after engine testing..

Checked spark plugs not to bad..so many things to list.

They suggested it was started over 10 years ago..we thinking longer..

Found fuel line..bent like a coat hanger..we straighten but still cleaning inside..

Thought we better check fuel pump..looks nasty..cleaning but need kit to stop leaks for starting.

Not sure what kit to purchase..help please..

Only numbers we could locate are L4285 & 856873...ac..

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[Josandra]

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[Josandra]

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