Help identifying coupe

[jeans_old_man]

Use top gear for more torque at the engine. Plugs out, of course.

[ColinB]

I took the head off today. The set screws on the timing wheel were a challenge as it was not possible to rotate the wheel to get at the lower ones. I used a cut-down slot head plus a small ratchet spanner to get them out at great cost to my fingers! I stuffed a duster down the chain case to make sure nothing could drop down there.

Having got the head off I found that the bores are pretty poor so I don't think it would have been a good idea to try to free this up - its going to require a re-build which I had already factored into my planning. Curiously enough there was a new gasket in there which didn't seem to have seen much action if any.

Not all the valves had closed despite the tappets being slackened off but the head looks to be in fair shape although it will have to be fully refurbished. No signs of cracks that I can see in either the block or the head but the pistons are already +60 so a rebore is not likely to be viable. I will see what options are open to me and would welcome suggestions.

[jeans_old_man]

Hi Colin,

You have probably already worked out that the three set screws are, in fact, just locating dowels and didn't need to be unscrewed to remove the sprocket!

With a bit of luck the bores will clean up but first you need to get the pistons out. I'm not familiar with the 'bent-wire' crank, but I believe they may come out downwards if you take off the big end caps.

If the bores are really bad you will need cylinder liners. I had mine done by a firm in Manchester but they no longer exist. You might be able to find another block. There was one (to suit the bent-wire crank) on the internet recently.

Fingers crossed!

Brian

[ColinB]

ha ha! Yes indeed Brian. I should have known as I have virtually the same engine in my Junior but I was blindly following the instruction book which said they should be removed.
I will take the engine to Whitmores as I know they will do a good job. Yes I imagine that if the bores can't be cleaned up they will have to be lined. In any event I would like the castings crack tested and the engine will need all new rings and the valves and seats may also need work.

[ColinB]

I have started dismantling ELA in preparation for removing the engine. I had hoped to get the starter out but unfortunately the steering box is in the way so I can't withdraw it completely. The question I have to get my head around is whether I have to remove the gearbox before removing the engine - I would prefer to take the whole assembly out and deal with it on the floor. I have to travel to London for work tomorrow ( ) which will interrupt my flow a little.

David Garn, the SOC and ASCO registrar for Bantams is going to check his stock for pistons and I'm sending off for Hardwick's catalogue too. From the state of number four in particular I think lining is the only viable option which will take her back to standard, requiring four new pistons.

[ColinB]

I don't know how we managed before eBay: I knew this article existed as it was reprinted in a SOC magazine from 1972 which came with the car. I was delighted to find a copy on eBay of the actual Light Car magazine from 1936 containing the original article.

[ColinB]

Can anyone tell me how the rear support for the gearbox works in the Bantam? It seems to be made up of a two piece clamp with rubber bearing faces and spacers to stop them crushing the rubber beyond a certain point. I have stripped out everything else ready to remove the engine and gearbox together and having loosened off the bolts securing the gearbox support I hope to find out the easy way (by getting advice) rather than the hard way (having it all partly removed on the hoist and stuck!) how it works.

[ColinB]

The problem with old cars is that there is sometimes little information on how they were put together. I got the engine and gearbox out today but the gearbox connection is particularly difficult as it offers no forward movement at all. I freed it up by jacking up the gearbox so the bolts in the support frame cleared the strange horns that provide the rear support. The gearbox support is a wrap-around frame with rubber mounts in it which I had to try and understand with the engine already in the hoist!

Engine will be off to Whitmores tomorrow and I will clean out the gearbox at home. It all looks very good but the oil in it is a bit turgid. Plenty of room for me to refurbish the brakes while the engine is receiving attention. I will also see if I can remove the clutch mechanism in the morning as it would be daft to put the engine back without renewing the clutch.

[ColinB]

So there is some bad news on the castings as the block is cracked in a couple of places and has been patched over with screwed-on plates and filler. The head also has a crack at valve number 2 which has been successfully welded and does hold a pressure test. Whitmores are however concerned that when they sort out the valve seat which is 'a bit of a mess' this crack may re-open. I think castings may be available in the UK so I'm on the hunt for better ones.

Sad person that I am I rather relish these challenges......

[Phillip]

Hey Colin,

Sorry to hear that the dreaded cracking has surfaced on your Coupe! But knowing your tenacity and practical approach to things, I am sure you will get this sorted and return this lovely Singer to the Road.

I do have Bantam spares, but not much in the way of engine parts. I have at least two gearboxes though, plus a host of other bits and bobs.

Thought I'd mention it just in case...

Cheers,
Phillip

[jeans_old_man]

There is a very rough-looking block and head on ebay. It's located in Rugby. Might rebore - worth a look.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Singer-9-Le- ... SwqLRcJRmN

[Phillip]

eBay Block_WEB.jpg (64.76 KiB) Viewed 36653 times

Checking out the listing I see that this looks like it is a '33 / '34 style block for the standard saloon and Sports engine with a six bolt rear main bearing and bent wire crank. If you study the photo showing the block upside-down you can see that it is the type designed for the fabricated copper pipework for the oil system. The early engines also had the breather on the upper rear of the casting.

The Bantam engine has the cast-in oil ways and breather. The Bantam head also has the cast-in water outlet and 'semi-hemi' combustion chambers (like a Le Mans) whereas I suspect this engine has the 'bathtub' style combustion chambers and is designed to take the bolt-on alloy water manifold.

That said, it might be possible to use, if it is crack-free and sound, but a lot of bits appear to be missing and it wouldn't be original!

Certainly worth a look anyway!

[ColinB]

That is really helpful Phillip so, although I had arranged to go over there this morning, I think I'll give it a miss. I have discovered that ASCO has three 972 cc engines in their spares store in North Lincolnshire so I'll give the custodian a ring and see what type they are. Having thought about it I am less bothered about the repaired damage to my original engine so unless the correct part turns up I'll ask Whitmores to continue to refurbish it and take a chance.

[Phillip]

Hey Colin,

Very happy to help!

A lot can be done to these blocks so long as someone hasn't tried to weld it. Ask Whitmores about Metalock stitching, that is the only safe way to repair the castings. 'Top Hat' liners are also the safest way of putting liners in the engine as well. The castings are very thin.

Good luck with the search! Investing in a spare block or head is a wise move regardless, unless you can afford a new Gibson block or head...if they are still available!

[ColinB]

Thanks Phillip, I'll pass the advice onto Whitmores.

I sent John Gibson a text yesterday but he hasn't replied and I suspect he isn't interested but you never know. I should be able to speak to the ASCO spares custodian tonight and if there is the possibility of a good block, head or complete engine I hope to go up to North Lincolnshire at the weekend to have a look.

Some good news today is that the radiator holds water and the starter motor works! I plan to overhaul the brakes and wheel bearings over the next week or so although I can't ignore the garden which is growing like mad, or the Light Six which is the major project.