Progress

[telco.2]

Choke linkage to the SU's is a bit of a problem and I've been thinking of using a similar set up to '35 cars with the knob mounted on a plate attached to the gearbox remote. Can anyone help with photo or drawing please?
Bill

[ColinB]

Looking spectacular Bill. Great number plate too - but is it really the last item on your agenda?

[telco.2]

Thanks Colin ! I wish it were....worst part of the rebuild this ...almost but not quite there.
I haven't dare make a a 'to do' list yet; grandson & I are working towards getting it running - which we hope will be before Christmas.
Number is original to the car as I bought the pile of bits with a V5C and the chassis number tallies.
Bill

[cdk84]

Everything you've done to date looks handsome as can be.

Don't let that Christmas deadline intimidate you: work on it, breathe, repeat.

I won't presume to speak for you. For me, however, it's the satisfaction of the little bits of completion that keep me going.

And I try like mad to have three or four things under way. That way, if one stalls, or I get stymied, I can switch to another and still make headway.

Some days just cleaning parts is tremendously satisfying.

Did I admit earlier to being simple-minded?

[telco.2]

Hi David thanks for the encouragement! That's what makes the Forum so vital.
I try to keep a few bits "on the go" too; otherwise everything would come to a standstill whilst waiting for eBay / supplier / inspiration delivers the goods! - or the paint dries .
Bill

[telco.2]

Hi folks,
well the bits for the choke mechanism are made - still to be painted - but it all works OK. Yeah I know... but we wouldn't go Continental touring without a SatNav and this was a handy place to put the socket!!! Took a bit longer than expected but then it is a Singer!
Next job is petrol feed ...and the pipe bender arrived this morning...
Bill

[telco.2]

At last a bit of an up-date. The engine is running fine now so I decided to go back a step and fit a Roadster diff. These are of much stronger construction / design than the 9 type. I bought a 4.1:1 cwp and with a bit of a fiddle managed to shim it up to give the required mesh and back lash. It's a tight fit in the axle casing as expected and with new Hardwick half shafts I feel a lot happier with its ability to cope with the torque / power of the six cylinder engine. The prop shaft is away being shortened as the 'nose' of the diff is longer...should be back later this week.
I encountered the usual LED niggles with wiring too. When the ignition was switched on everything worked OK including the new type flasher unit; but as soon as the engine fired up the indicator lights wouldn't flash and gave a steady light. The supplier suggested wiring a condenser in parallel which I did...no difference. He then suggested that with wooden frame work the flasher was maybe too close to the coil. It ended up in the tail ..and everything now works fine!
Next job is final fit of the bonnet before I spray it; I never like having the bonnet kicking around all sprayed up as its inevitably going to be damaged!
Bill

[ColinB]

Great see your continued progress Bill.

[Blue3]

Looking great Bill

Simon

[telco.2]

Thanks to encouragement from all you guys who are also struggling along with one aspect or another of a rebuild - we're flying! Carbs tweaked and balanced yesterday...sounds great. Prop-shaft shortened and re-fitted. Gears select as they should. Waiting for DVLA - our UK legal paperwork office to register the engine change - before we can try her on the road.
Now...has anyone any photos of how the hood attaches to the wooden head rail above the screen ...and any other hood fitting details for that matter...it would be really helpful. My friend whose going to start on it as soon as he returns from holiday is really keen to get going!!

[Peter McKercher]

Bill,
Here is a shot of mine. The hood attaches to the timber with tacks hidden by a piece of Hidem to conceal the heads. Leave a flap of the hood to cover the top of the windscreen frame. The corners of the hood snap onto the windscreen frame on each side.

[telco.2]

Hi Peter,
Those photos certainly answer some queries...but also pose another as I don't have any means of attaching the 'flap' to the screen!
A pretty good wooden rail came with the car, but the contour doesn't follow the screen top so ...I'll have to make another. I have one of the pegs (very, very, worn) which fit into the top of the screen and the stainless steel bar and plate has just arrived so that I can make a pair of replacements.
More bits of the jig saw

[jeans_old_man]

Hi Bill,

Originally, there was a chromed metal plate that covered the gap between hood and windscreen and the fasteners at the ends were 'lift-the-dot' attached with a 2BA thread (still available from Woolies). The photo below shows what looks like a Hardwck's replacement. The pegs that are screwed to the wooden rail are attached to a bevelled bar to match the angle of the holes on the windscreen. Brian

[telco.2]

Ah!! I have one (possibly 2) of those chrome plates, but couldn't work out how they attached. My car came in boxes with a hood frame that wasn't Singer and no windscreen so both are Hardwick replacements. My pal who does the upholstery will no doubt be able to sort everything out, but he suggested a few photos might help!!

[jeans_old_man]

I'm at the same stage as you but have made a frame from the drawings on the forum. I bought the metal plate from Hardwick's but I prefer the look of the Hidem binding solution. The wooden bar that came with the car had a strip of closed-cell sponge (like draft excluder) along the front edge and the whole was wrapped in hood material so I'm going going to copy that.