Rebirthing one '34 from a '33 & a '34
Re: Rebirthing one '34 from a '33 & a '34
Great work! But how do you keep your garage so tidy?
Re: Rebirthing one '34 from a '33 & a '34
Thanks for the compliment, but my wife doesn’t think it is tidy, but she is happier now that the body panels have moved out of the wardrobes! That only leaves a few boxes with headlights etc and she will be very happy.
Re: Rebirthing one '34 from a '33 & a '34
Hi Darcy,
Starting to look like a proper Singer, it is.
What wonderful momentum you've gotten.
How was the UK rallye? Did you discover what you needed in terms of locating the wing brackets and fasteners?
Starting to look like a proper Singer, it is.
What wonderful momentum you've gotten.
How was the UK rallye? Did you discover what you needed in terms of locating the wing brackets and fasteners?
Re: Rebirthing one '34 from a '33 & a '34
I have worked out that there is a strict assembly order for the radiator etc , the light mounts and the front guards. I need to take off the radiator, mount the guard brackets , install the guards and then remount the radiator. If only there were a set of instructions!
At this point I will not drill any holes in the new gaurds until I return form the Uk Rally as I would like to confirm locations etc first. For example, because these were Aussie built, the lower guard brackets appear to be in a different position that may mean drilling new chassis holes. I don’t want to do that until I am certain of location etc.
Hopefully today I will bend up some copper tube for the front apron driving light bracket. A friend in the local car club has some refrigeration pipe bending equipment that should do the job. I was lucky enough to find the right size tube at a scrap yard in Sydney. I will post details when we succeed. In the meantime school holidays and grandchildren take some priority.
At this point I will not drill any holes in the new gaurds until I return form the Uk Rally as I would like to confirm locations etc first. For example, because these were Aussie built, the lower guard brackets appear to be in a different position that may mean drilling new chassis holes. I don’t want to do that until I am certain of location etc.
Hopefully today I will bend up some copper tube for the front apron driving light bracket. A friend in the local car club has some refrigeration pipe bending equipment that should do the job. I was lucky enough to find the right size tube at a scrap yard in Sydney. I will post details when we succeed. In the meantime school holidays and grandchildren take some priority.
Re: Rebirthing one '34 from a '33 & a '34
Lovely work Darcy and nice to see it coming along so well.
Love seeing a freshly restored pair of those beautiful Jaeger chronometric gauges - they are getting expensive now, pushing 500 quid each at Beaulieu last time I was there.
Really like your alloy brake drums also!
Relating back to exhausts, I have used both standard American Thrush mufflers and the red 'glass pack' ones, which have worked nicely and fit perfectly between the distance of the chassis cross members like the original Singer muffler did. They are reasonably priced and easy to find. They provide a sporty exhaust note, but not overly loud. I use a 2" ID inlet and a 1 7/8" outlet. Painted silver gray or black they look quite period. The Roadster mufflers are very similar in design to the pre-war ones, but have a smaller id inlet and outlet. I've downloaded a lot of photos and data on tractor mufflers and no doubt there are versions that have the right look and will work quite well also.
Love seeing a freshly restored pair of those beautiful Jaeger chronometric gauges - they are getting expensive now, pushing 500 quid each at Beaulieu last time I was there.
Really like your alloy brake drums also!
Relating back to exhausts, I have used both standard American Thrush mufflers and the red 'glass pack' ones, which have worked nicely and fit perfectly between the distance of the chassis cross members like the original Singer muffler did. They are reasonably priced and easy to find. They provide a sporty exhaust note, but not overly loud. I use a 2" ID inlet and a 1 7/8" outlet. Painted silver gray or black they look quite period. The Roadster mufflers are very similar in design to the pre-war ones, but have a smaller id inlet and outlet. I've downloaded a lot of photos and data on tractor mufflers and no doubt there are versions that have the right look and will work quite well also.
Your Friendly Canadian Pre-War Singer Specialist, Collector & Historian,
Editor & Pre-War Registrar & Canadian Contact -NASOC
Singer Enthusiast for over 40 Years.
'28 Senior, '33 & '34 Sports, '36 Le Mans SS & Bantam
Editor & Pre-War Registrar & Canadian Contact -NASOC
Singer Enthusiast for over 40 Years.
'28 Senior, '33 & '34 Sports, '36 Le Mans SS & Bantam
Re: Rebirthing one '34 from a '33 & a '34
It could always be better, but it looks slightly original. I will cut to final size when apron is bolted down and then have chromed.
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mikeyr
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Re: Rebirthing one '34 from a '33 & a '34
You just created the instructions for the rest of usDarcyG wrote:I have worked out that there is a strict assembly order for the radiator etc , the light mounts and the front guards. I need to take off the radiator, mount the guard brackets , install the guards and then remount the radiator. If only there were a set of instructions!
Mike Rambour. Site Administrator
1953 Singer 4ADT (sold), 1934 Singer 9 Le Mans, 1934 Singer 1 1/2 4-Seater Sports (sold), 2009 BMW K1300GT
1953 Singer 4ADT (sold), 1934 Singer 9 Le Mans, 1934 Singer 1 1/2 4-Seater Sports (sold), 2009 BMW K1300GT
Re: Rebirthing one '34 from a '33 & a '34
Making up a knew harness comes to a stall as we head off to UK Rally - see you there if slso attending.
I didn’t realise that building this harness would take so long. As you can see I am adding extra fuse boxes, out of sight. The harness will be btsided when finished. I am using a Lucas db10 relay for indicator/side lights and a modified indicator set up using slc switch casing.
I didn’t realise that building this harness would take so long. As you can see I am adding extra fuse boxes, out of sight. The harness will be btsided when finished. I am using a Lucas db10 relay for indicator/side lights and a modified indicator set up using slc switch casing.
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Re: Rebirthing one '34 from a '33 & a '34
Getting closer, wiring is complete,I think, on the car side, dash is wired but needs to be connected to the loom, maybe tomorrow, and then the big test!!!! Needs a little cleaning up. I plan to lay out on a table and apply tape to create the final layout. It is a little more complex as there are live earth leads back to most points and battery rather than relying on the frame plus the SLC 2 switch is acting as an indicator hub.
Then away to be braided.
Then away to be braided.
Re: Rebirthing one '34 from a '33 & a '34
Getting closer, wiring is complete,I think, on the car side, dash is wired but needs to be connected to the loom, maybe tomorrow, and then the big test!!!! Needs a little cleaning up. I plan to lay out on a table and apply tape to create the final layout. It is a little more complex as there are live earth leads back to most points and battery rather than relying on the frame plus the SLC 2 switch is acting as an indicator hub.
Then away to be braided.
Then away to be braided.
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Re: Rebirthing one '34 from a '33 & a '34
Not exactly what I did at the weekend, but over a few days, allowing for everything else in life -
Tribulations of wiring SLC 2 switch for indicators:
. Lay wires with build of harness
. Realise I need to rethink attachment to steering box, I need three washers as spacers and nut on end of inner column needs to be thinner
. Realise I need to vary attachment of indicator switch inside of SLC2 switch, 3 washers to lift connector for centre shaft
. Realise I should fit final lower steering wheel boss now other wise I have to rebuild whole set up down the track.
. By this time I have fitted and re-fitted SLC2 and inner columm several times.
. Realise I should fit indicator wires to SLC switch and take to junction fit on the loom, allowing for easy removal in the future, so cut, trim, solder bullet joints etcHands are getting sore, dame arthritis!
. Realise square key for steering wheel centre is fractionally small from wear, need new one
. Realise the slot in the steering wheel is wider at one end from wear, loose fitting I assume; I could file out square but that means mis alignment with space in steel column
. Consult with brother - he suggests I buy key rod, but none available locally, a two hour return trip, so I look for alternative
. I try to make new key with file from a suitable bolt, hard work and it didn’t fit, arthritis again (worn out carpometacarpal joint for those of a technical bend, it is the cv joint of the thumb).
. Decide to get the heavy gear out and make one with the mill and trim fit with file. Much rasier and should have thought of in the first place.
. Trial fit- great
. Need to have the correct holding bolts for attaching the centre boss to centre column, trip to Newcastle, clean up mess in garage in the meantime.
. The job continues
We are making progress.....
And my Wife wants to know why it takes so long!
Tribulations of wiring SLC 2 switch for indicators:
. Lay wires with build of harness
. Realise I need to rethink attachment to steering box, I need three washers as spacers and nut on end of inner column needs to be thinner
. Realise I need to vary attachment of indicator switch inside of SLC2 switch, 3 washers to lift connector for centre shaft
. Realise I should fit final lower steering wheel boss now other wise I have to rebuild whole set up down the track.
. By this time I have fitted and re-fitted SLC2 and inner columm several times.
. Realise I should fit indicator wires to SLC switch and take to junction fit on the loom, allowing for easy removal in the future, so cut, trim, solder bullet joints etcHands are getting sore, dame arthritis!
. Realise square key for steering wheel centre is fractionally small from wear, need new one
. Realise the slot in the steering wheel is wider at one end from wear, loose fitting I assume; I could file out square but that means mis alignment with space in steel column
. Consult with brother - he suggests I buy key rod, but none available locally, a two hour return trip, so I look for alternative
. I try to make new key with file from a suitable bolt, hard work and it didn’t fit, arthritis again (worn out carpometacarpal joint for those of a technical bend, it is the cv joint of the thumb).
. Decide to get the heavy gear out and make one with the mill and trim fit with file. Much rasier and should have thought of in the first place.
. Trial fit- great
. Need to have the correct holding bolts for attaching the centre boss to centre column, trip to Newcastle, clean up mess in garage in the meantime.
. The job continues
We are making progress.....
And my Wife wants to know why it takes so long!
Re: Rebirthing one '34 from a '33 & a '34
After 15 days in Mongolia (because I have never been there), trip to Europe (for wife) and UK for Singer Rally (for me), a knee op and recovery, I am now trying to remember where I left off! Its an age thing.
Seats fitted today, on slides, not original but the only way 6 foot me and size 12+ feet can fit! All seems ok, now to trim bolts etc and move on with wiring.
Seats fitted today, on slides, not original but the only way 6 foot me and size 12+ feet can fit! All seems ok, now to trim bolts etc and move on with wiring.
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Re: Rebirthing one '34 from a '33 & a '34
Finally, after many delays, including number 3 son’s wedding in Seoul and the UK Ralley, the wiring harness is now complete and static tested on all leads and switches, including the incorporation of indicator swith in SLC 2 casing. It will be sent off tomorrow for braiding.
One step closer that took me a lot longer than planned and caused more headaches than anticipated, now to move onto the next set of challenges.
One step closer that took me a lot longer than planned and caused more headaches than anticipated, now to move onto the next set of challenges.
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