New Project

[ColinB]

Thanks for the idea Mike but unfortunately my tap has a sliding fitting which allows the tap to move between normal and reserve as you can see from the picture so to function it needs a flat seal. I have looked for a fitting to screw into the tank so I can fit a new tap but the thread is 7/8 x 20 tpi which I think is UNEF and I cant find any fittings in this size. So I have immobilised the tap in the 'reserve' position and I'll fit a secondary tap into the system. Fortunately the delivery pipe is 5/16" (or 8mm) so parts are easy to find.

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[DarcyG]

Have you considered making a steped thread fitting to allow for a more modern tap fitting?

[ColinB]

Unfortunately I haven't got the kit to cut threads Darcy and Rob's talented machinist Jim has had a stroke and is no longer working. What I propose will do at least while I get the rest of the body done. Mind you if there is a volunteer out there I would be delighted!

[ColinB]

I have screwed the new roof struts into place and trial fitted the aluminium roof sections I removed to repair the rot at the front. I believe the roof has a hessian base followed by a padded layer with a fabric applied over the top. I will check with John Griffiths as I know he completely restored his roof. I was wondering about using the shrink material used on classic planes for the top surface as I know that takes paint very well.

[ColinB]

The bits for my fuel arrangement arrived today so I fitted them (after a pub lunch). The arrangement is fairly neat and doesn't leak so it will do for now. If I can find a reducer from male 7/8" UNEF 20tpi to a female 5/16" BSP I'll change it! I also swapped the float valve for a spare one with a slightly longer pin for the float to operate and this seems to have stopped the carb leaking too.

[ColinB]

I have spent a couple of days taking stock and planning my next steps now the basic structural woodwork is generally done:

The sills are clad in aluminium which has been ripped off in the past and although I have two original pieces to act as patterns I need to make new ones as the originals are heavily oxidised. The good news is that these originals fit perfectly between the door posts giving further confirmation that the frame geometry is OK.
The rear mudguards are badly corroded but can be repaired so I need to get that job under way.
I particularly want to get the doors to fit so I will strip off the door cards, check the structure and modify this where necessary. The good news is that the leather cards themselves are in good condition and only need minor restoration; the ones clad in carpet will be replaced.
Once I have got the doors to fit I will start the fairly mammoth job of stripping her back to her base metal ready for paint
My new radiator surround should be with me in a couple of weeks so I am assembling all the metalwork for chroming. Once again I have been disappointed by signs of heavy handed attacks, this time on the screen metalwork. While the parts are clearly screwed together someone has attempted to lever them apart causing damage to one of the sections. Fortunately this is relatively minor and being on the inside will not show too badly.

[ColinB]

Screen disassembled. I drilled out the screws although I got one out in one piece, but unfortunately a section of the vandalised part fell out so will need repair. There was a nameplate for Beatonson on the screen so its a proprietary item not a Singer-specific one. There was a wooden strip under the top section which I presume is to stop the glass blocking off the holes for the windscreen wiper.

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[ColinB]

I have had a frustrating couple of days simply trying to get the window winders off the doors so I can remove the door cards and get to the interior structure. Typically over-engineered the winder handle is connected to the spigot by two lugs retained by a spring-loaded clip. I made a crude tool to pull the clip back but despite many hours I have been unable to get the final two off. Rather than waste further time I have decided to restore them in situ and I carefully sliced the door cards so I could get them off. The inner skin is steel over which the aluminium was formed and at the lower edge of two of the doors this steel has rotted. So I need to work out a way of replacing this section.

[cdk84]

Colin,

Your versatility and stick-to-it-iveness never fail to amaze me.

I would be pulling out what's left of my hair with such obstacles!

Before taking the LeMans Sports Coupe to British Invasion ( 550-700 cars of many prescriptions ) in Stowe, Vermont, I began taking apart BMX 7's windscreen. I wanted to take it off the car to determine the profile of the rubber molding along the roof edge of the screen with an eye to replacing it. This rubber has completely perished, even leaving nubbits stuck to the car where once it provided a seal against inclement weather.

The screws removed in the process were stubby little things with a beveled or tapered head. As is often the case, I was able to screw out all but one. Some satisfaction there, but when I tried to re-insert the screws from their same holes, they simply spun, not finding threads at all. Sigh.

Just don't know what I will do at present. It will come to me --unless you suggest something first. I'm smart but slow. When a solution does occur, it's very satisfying because every once in awhile it's a creative idea. That always feels great. Just hope I live long enough to come up with the solutions I need and implement them before it's too late.

Crack on!

By the way, I had a tremendous amount of very positive feedback on BMX 7 from the show attendees. She received more attention (and votes) than at least one, more deserving, car. I attribute this to the car being presented in as close to its original state ( chewed acorn cases on the scuttle remaining from its life in California ) as I could make it. Would you consider preserving the original finish of your gorgeous Ten, if only for the time being? While I may be an army of one, I am Very Taken with the original finish of your car.

It's a very hard decision to make. Just don't know how I will go about the process of deciding for BMX 7's future.

Very Best, as Always,

David

[ColinB]

I am pondering the finish David as, like you, I prefer my cars to look their age. Some parts do however need painting including the front and rear mudguards and the whole bonnet. This is because they are down to bare and very rusty metal which has been crudely primed over by a previous owner (at least it wasn't oil this time!). The roof has also disappeared and will have to be re-covered in vinyl and the running boards and associated trim are also going to be re-made as they are virtually non-existent. So my fear is that she could look very odd with lots of new paint on all the ancillaries contrasting with the aged finish on the body. I think the original look works best when a whole car has been cared for, which is definitely not the case with my Six!

As I hope to get my radiator back fairly soon with a new surround fitted I do plan to repair the bonnet and get it painted along with the front mudguards, which I have already primed and undercoated in black. Perhaps I should do those first and fit them to the rest of the car before I strip it to see how odd it really looks!

[mikeC]

Is it worth experimenting with satin, rather than gloss, paint?

[ColinB]

yes Mike I agree I don't want her to be too glossy. I'm using coach enamel by brush which I believe will have its gloss reduced by cutting back after it has hardened. So that is my current plan.

[ColinB]

Bonnet cleaned off, scrubbed with very hot water and detergent, and rotten stiffening pieces riveted to the bottom of each side piece have been removed. I'll use my friend Dick's press to make new pieces. This evening I painted the inside with black metal paint, and tomorrow I'll apply rust treatment to the outside before painting with the small tins of enamel I have bought to check the colours.

[ColinB]

I applied a coat of top gloss to the front mudguards yesterday. My wife is away for a few days so I was able to use some of her spaces in the warehouse (as we call it) to leave them undisturbed. I have also tapped out some dents in the bonnet tops and primed them before applying a first coat of high-build primer in dark blue. The sides will have to wait as I can't get access to Dick's bending press until some time next week and there is no point in painting a half finished part no matter how impatient I may get! The pictures of the mudguards aren't great as there is no room to step back in the utility room or Linda's painting studio, but I'm confident I can get a good finish with a mild rub down and a second coat. It is far less trouble than spraying too!

[telco.2]

Hi Colin,
Having nothing to do( !!!) I'm reading through some Old Motor magazines which I have in bound volumes from day 1 of its publication...
I came across this photo of your car in October 1979 issue and think it's slightly different from the one in Mascot - if not please ignore!!
kind regards
Bill