Ashby Steering Wheel

[cdk84]

Hello All,

Does anyone have an Ashby steering wheel in presentable or restorable condition? I am searching for such a wheel.
Restorable to me means that the spokes are sufficiently preserved to be replated and returned to exceptional condition. The condition of the rim is not as important as the state of the spokes' surface, though the spoke plating need not be good.
Of course, a restored Ashby wheel would be better still.
If you haven't one, but know of someone who has, a referral would be very much appreciated.
Thank you in advance.

Kind Regards,
David

[Peter McKercher]

Dave
Dave Hardwick of the UK SOC supplies them new. The only difference is the 3 pieces that separate the spokes are a little more square than the original. If I recall correctly, the price of restoring is about the same price as the new one.

[Phillip]

Hi David,

Dave H sells the current Bluemel version of the wheel, which, nice though it is, is different in design to the Ashby. The rim design and spoke separators are quite different on the Ashby. If you want a more authentic design, then contact Wheelwrights in the UK. Gene Abbondello and I spoke to them at Beaulieu last year and they can produce an accurate replica of the Ashby. Gene had one made for his '35 LM longtail and was very satisfied with the results. The main difference is that the rim is plastic rather than the original rubber, which deteriorated.

It's Ironic that not that many people know the Ashby wheel, which was the original Brooklands 'go faster' goodie of the 1930's and that it is the licensed copy made by Bluemels that is remembered best and still produced. I think this has a lot to do with the Ashby's design and construction: The rubber perishes and turns to a black dust that gets all over your hands and the frame, spokes and separators are made from steel, which rusts and breaks up. The Bluemels were more robust with stainless spokes, chrome plated brass separators and a plastic resin rim, which lasts much longer. I guess popularity is down to the rate of survival of each. I have seen a few Ashbys restored, but Wheelwrights told us it is very often not possible to do so. I think the original Ashby design has a much more '30's' look and nicer to hold on to.

If you would like the coordinates for Wheelwrights and for Gene, just let me know.

Hope that helps!

[darcy]

Hi, how do I tell an Ashby Steering Wheel. I just acquired a 1934 Singer (or rather parts thereof) to combine with parts of another I have. Included is a steering wheel I "put away" for now but recall my hands coming away covered in black. Interestingly I think I have another one that has a more solid outer and has cracks in it. I am a little vague at present as I am away from home. I will check them out when I return home. I had planned buying a new wheel because I didn't think these could be restored. I cam across these entries by accident, not realsing the difference in the brands.

I did find an entry on the original patent for the Ashby Wheel - http://www.freepatentsonline.com/2128069.html but this implies the ribs went into rubber framework in the steering wheel hub, but this is not the case in these wheels.

Darcy

PS I will post details of these two cars shortly - I hope to get one out of two.

[Phillip]

Hey Darcy,

First off, congrats on getting the Singer. Is it a Sports 4 seater or a Le Mans?

Sounds like the wheel you had that covered your hands in black dust is the classic early Ashby!

The US patent is for a later Ashby design that incorporated a rubber 'cushion' at the hub end of the spokes. Singer didn't use that design, but Ashby did make a big deal out of it in their advertising of the time.

The Ashby 'Brooklands' is pretty easy to tell from the Bluemels variation:

The version of the Ashby used on Singers from 1933 to 1935 has a smooth rim made of a rubber-like material that decays pretty quickly in sunlight. The spokes are chrome plated steel and the spoke separators are cylindrical and also of steel.

The 1936 wheel has a celluloid rim with finger grips and 'wobbly' spokes. That is, the center spoke of each set is straight while the spokes either side have a bend in them to provide strength in place of the spoke separators.

As far as I know, some '37 models returned to the old style spokes but had a celluloid rim, while others appear to have the 'wobbly wheel'. Ashby did actually use stainless spokes from time-to-time. I have the remains of a 1936 wheel used on a Bantam tourer and, although the rubber rim has almost completely rotted away, the stainless spokes are still good. That said, the spokes on my '36 LM's 'wobbly wheel' are steel!

As mentioned in a prior post, Wheelwrights in the UK make a nice Ashby wheel, as does one of the Austin Seven specialists. I will have to dig up my list!

ABOVE: Here's a shot of the reproduction Ashby made by Wheelwrights for Gene Abbondelo's '35 LM 4 seater 'long tail'. Quite nice and a big difference in look to the usual Bluemels replacement!

ABOVE:Here's a shot of my LM 'as found' in 1998 and with its original 'wobbly wheel'. The leather steering wheel cover is the result of two many hot California summers and a cracked celluloid rim!

Hope that helps!

[mikeyr]

Wheelrights, L.V.&C. Spares
The Wharehouse
Baxtergate,off Lord Street
Morecambe
LA4 5HX


Jerry Walker
01524 423453
wheelrights@classicmotor.demon.co.uk (not sure the e-mail still works)

[Phillip]

Thanks Mike!

What a great Singer community we have.

Wheelrights ( my bad on the sp) are very nice to deal with and had an Ashby in stock when we visited their stand at Beaulieu, so we could verify the quality.

Note that the Singers used two types of spoke lengths; 1933 to 1935 have short spokes to accommodate the large center hub with horn button and lighting / charging controls, while the 1936 / 1937 type have longer spokes to fit the small center hub, very much like the MG TC, etc.

My time is very short at the moment, but I know I have the Austin Seven catalogs somewhere and can get you that information also.

Hope that helps!

[darcy]

Below I have posted two photos of the wheels I have and on close inspection I don't believe either is easily re-usable. The second definitely has a rusted inner steel wheel and the former several struts broken (although I suspect these could be repaired).

They are or were, definitely Ashby wheels. So any detail you can provide on a new wheel would be appreciated. Thanks.

[Phillip]

Hey Darcy,

The top photo of the two wheels that has the spacers higher up on the spokes is the right one for the hub you show in the lower picture. The wheel on the lower picture that is on the hub presently has spacers set too low and was probably originally used on a small hub. These Ashby wheels were used on many pre-war cars and could be bought as an after-market item.

Both wheels look pretty rough and probably not worth the trouble. Rust always gets them and the original style rubber covering isn't being reproduced.

Here's the link for the Austin Seven specialist:

http://www.austinrepro.com/catalogue.htm

They do a 16" version of the Ashby wheel as well as produce new Rotax L140 8" headlamps as used on the Singer Nines from 1933 to 1937.

Hope that helps!

[Phillip]

2012 Update:

Ashby's available 'off-the-peg' on eBay....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BROOKLANDS-ST ... 0610817599

Should help a few more out who wish to get the original look and feel.

Singer used the smooth rim without finger grips up until '36. If you are interested, make sure you advise them which hub you have:

- The '33 to '35 type requires shorter spokes with spacers higher up the spokes to accommodate the large steering hub.

- The later '36/ '37 type has the small center hub requiring longer spokes and spacers lower down the spokes. This is probably the version they stock as standard.

Also remember that many '36 cars had the 'wobbly wheel' with no spacers, not the standard style. See my earlier posts for photos.