54 4A Body crack
54 4A Body crack
Hello, My 54 roadster has two cracks in the aluminum skin at the bottom of the trunk.I has been suggested to me previously that this was caused by the frame flexing. At this time I have the body off the frame and I would like to know if there are any suggestions , such as boxing in the frame, to help with this issue in the future. Tomr
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mikeyr
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Re: 54 4A Body crack
well known problem...
Corey (a ex-president from many decades ago) boxed in the rear of his frame and it never cracked again. He said that was the solution.
When I did my car in mid-1970s there was a belief that not bolting down the rear body mounts would allow the rear body to float and not crack. Since I did not want to box my frame, that is what I did. I put in the 2 rear bolts and left them completely loose, I mean the nut was barely on. It took 40,000 miles and 30 years but I was showing cracks when I sold the car, I still consider that a success.
Third option which Corey also tried but never got the chance to test was a angle iron bracket holding up the rear section. If you look under the car, you will see a timber that goes the width of the car, its the one with the trunk hinges on it. Corey cut a piece of angle iron the length of that timber and then welded on 2 brackets hanging down to the car frame and slightly (1/4" maybe 3/8") lifted the body with this contraption and then bolted that to the frame. The idea was that the angle iron would support the rear of the body AND stop the flexing. It looked like a great solution, better then mine and way easier than boxing the frame (which some people might consider a permanent damaging solution as it would be difficult to go back to original on the frame). Unfortunately he had to get rid of the car only a few months later and I decades ago lost track of that car.
Corey (a ex-president from many decades ago) boxed in the rear of his frame and it never cracked again. He said that was the solution.
When I did my car in mid-1970s there was a belief that not bolting down the rear body mounts would allow the rear body to float and not crack. Since I did not want to box my frame, that is what I did. I put in the 2 rear bolts and left them completely loose, I mean the nut was barely on. It took 40,000 miles and 30 years but I was showing cracks when I sold the car, I still consider that a success.
Third option which Corey also tried but never got the chance to test was a angle iron bracket holding up the rear section. If you look under the car, you will see a timber that goes the width of the car, its the one with the trunk hinges on it. Corey cut a piece of angle iron the length of that timber and then welded on 2 brackets hanging down to the car frame and slightly (1/4" maybe 3/8") lifted the body with this contraption and then bolted that to the frame. The idea was that the angle iron would support the rear of the body AND stop the flexing. It looked like a great solution, better then mine and way easier than boxing the frame (which some people might consider a permanent damaging solution as it would be difficult to go back to original on the frame). Unfortunately he had to get rid of the car only a few months later and I decades ago lost track of that car.
Mike Rambour. Site Administrator
1953 Singer 4ADT (sold), 1934 Singer 9 Le Mans, 1934 Singer 1 1/2 4-Seater Sports (sold), 2009 BMW K1300GT
1953 Singer 4ADT (sold), 1934 Singer 9 Le Mans, 1934 Singer 1 1/2 4-Seater Sports (sold), 2009 BMW K1300GT