G'day from Western Australia

[jeans_old_man]

It might need a piece cutting out and cold stitching. I had mine fusion welded 40 years ago with complete success. The process involved stripping the block completely and heating it in a brick oven before laying down new cast iron. Unfortunately I cannot find anyone who can do this now. You might investigate laser welding - or - you might leave it as it is. The existing repair seems to be doing its job. You might use loctite to lock-in the stud.

[Oz singer]

Thanks , I should be able to have it repaired. BUT ! the head is in a sad shape. Beside the advanced corrosion it is really cracked.
Plan "36 head" is back on the table ! The good thing, the bigger intake valves.

[jeans_old_man]

Wow! That's bad. Never say unrepairable but you might be better choosing another head. I have a set of workshop manuals from the 1920s and there are examples of casting repairs far worse than this. Don't throw it away - maybe one day......

[Oz singer]

Yes ! I was ratter disappointed with it but... And sure that I am keeping it, maybe one day I will find a person to repair it, but for now it will go on the shelf as an offering to the gods of speed !

[darcy]

Have you thought of vacuum sealing, applications:

Casting Impregnation Applications:

Engine blocks
Cylinder heads
Engine covers
Transmission cases
Compressor components
Cooling/oil pumps
Crank case
Torque converter housings
Oil pans

At https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/ ... tions.html

In Australia:
Henkel Australia Pty. Ltd.
Level 4, 20 Rodborough Road
Frenchs Forest, NSW 2086
Australia

I would imagine there is significant application in the mining operations, especially in the West. I would be giving it a go. It may take a few phone calls to locate the right person.

[Oz singer]

Thanks for the link , much appreciated .

[Oz singer]

What a job to remove two crankshafts, from two blocks with seized pistons and bearings !!
I have been able not to damage the C/balanced crank's block but the other suffered a bit
Anyway plenty of cleaning before going to the machine shop.

[jeans_old_man]

Make sure that whoever grinds your big-end journals leaves a large radius at the ends. Not doing this is a major cause of crankshaft failure that usually occurs about two weeks after a rebuild. It will require the grinder to dress his wheel appropriately which is why it often doesn't get done.

[Oz singer]

Thanks Brian, appreciated.

[Oz singer]

Does someone knows or have some crankshaft and connecting rod data ?
Like running clearances, end floats ect... ?
I found measurements for the 4 Series motor, but nothing related to the 972cc.
I really need to find a manual ...

[Phillip]

Hi Thierry,

Here's a basic primer on the 972cc engine...

As you know since you have the engine apart, the main bearings and the rod bearing are white metal castings (we call babbit bearings) and a regrind of any of the crank journals will require re-metaling the bearings. The mains need to be line-bored in place.

As mentioned, It is also critical to ensure you maintain a radius on the outer edges of the crank journals during the grind. A lot of shops don't like to do this as it means they have to specially dress their stones. Failure to do this though, will result in the crank breaking.

Also check that the crank is clean internally. The oil-ways fill with sludge since there is no oil filter on the engine. Ideally remove the screwed-in plugs and clean out each journal and also replace the curved oil pipes if possible.

Operating clearances for the 972cc Nine engine follow general engineering principles:

Clearance on all bearings: 0.002 to 0.003
Crank end float is very important and this is done at the front of the crank with brass shims. 0.003 to 0.005 clearance.
Big end rod end float: 0.005 to 0.010
Radius on journals 5/32
Max regrind on crank big ends -0.040 Mains -0.060.
Max rebore size for pistons is 60mm +60" but I would not recommend going over +40" Singer did not recommend +60 either.

I strongly recommend crack detection tests on the crank and rods.

If the main bearings are ground, the flywheel must be sleeved to maintain a light press fit onto the end of the crank. A loose flywheel will come off! There is no locating flange between the crank and flywheel. Also make sure the crank bolts are in good shape and not too long.

Engine oil pressure should be @30psi at idle.

Be wary of everything! These engines are fragile by modern standards and the castings crack easily. They are thin to start with.

Do not tighten the head studs into the block more than hand tight and use a non-hardening gasket sealant as the studs go into the water jacket. It is easy to cause radial cracks in the block face.

CRITICAL: Do not tighten the head more than 28 lb/ft!

If truing the block or head face is required, skim the absolute minimum necessary to get a reasonable and true surface.

If you can, boil out and rod the water jacket as it fills with rust easily and is small to begin with. This engine has no water pump and operates by thermo-syphon. Replace the thin tin casting core plugs and examine the alloy one in the front of the block. This rots through from the back.

It appears that the engines up to 1935 were originally painted all dark green. Post 1935 they were all black, but these days most people seem to paint the block and head black and clean up / polish the alloy, brass and copper parts.

Hope that helps to start with...

[Oz singer]

Phillip, thank you very much.

Now I can start working. I found that on the Speed block a cylinder has been re sleeved, and being +.40 already. So look like we will re sleeve this block then.
I am still trying to remove the rear main bearing from the Speed crank

[telco.2]

Hi Thiery
Good to see you making progress with your piles of engine bits. Do you need a rear main casting or do you have one? I have a spare if of use to you Not sure what postage would be from UK but can check if it would help
Bill

[Oz singer]

Hello Bill,
No, I don't have a spare rear main bearing casting as yet. So I am interested , I'll send you a message thanks.

[Oz singer]

On the subject of big ends and big mains , do you know the diameters of them ? I have some conflicting diameters who doesn't match my cranks.
Thanks.