Pressing on with restoration, removing the body.

The 4A, 4AB, 4AC, 4AD cars, including the SM 1500 Roadster and SMX
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fly4ad
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Pressing on with restoration, removing the body.

Post by fly4ad »

While contemplating what direction to go with the cracked engine block, I finally have the shop rearranged such that I can proceed with disassembly in preparation for restoration. The front end sheet metal has all been removed to gain access to work on the engine. Now, the next step in my mind is to lift the mid and aft body section from the frame. Can anyone give me a general idea, details, along with any cautions or tips, as to the best way to do this? The rear fenders are still installed as well as the boot lid and doors. Also, the dash has basically been untouched and is still wired to the rest of the car. I do know there are 4 basic attach points that hold the body to the frame. Any suggestions in this area will be greatly appreciated! I can figure it all out, :roll: but it doesn't hurt to check with the pros!

Thanks for all the help, have a great day!
Fred
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mikeyr
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Re: Pressing on with restoration, removing the body.

Post by mikeyr »

fly4ad wrote: I do know there are 4 basic attach points that hold the body to the frame.
8 bolts, not 4.

Of course I last did this in the late 1970s but its 8 bolts. 2 up front by the cowl, 2 by the rear of the doors, 2 at the tail and uhm...where are the other 2 ? I forget but its 8. Unless you meant 4 points on each side then you are right.

I attached a 2x4 from the cowl to behind the door to keep the body from folding in 2 when i lifted it front & rear but unless the side beams are weak I am not sure that is needed.
Mike Rambour. Site Administrator
1953 Singer 4ADT (sold), 1934 Singer 9 Le Mans, 1934 Singer 1 1/2 4-Seater Sports (sold), 2009 BMW K1300GT
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kabu
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Re: Pressing on with restoration, removing the body.

Post by kabu »

Hi,

As Mike said, eight seems to be the number.

http://www.singercars.com/4ax/ptwelve.html

Four outside the chassis at the ends of the X-frame. Two at the ends of the tubular crossmember in front of the rear axle and two at the ends of the rear crossmember.

I think it is better to stiffen the body by attaching some support beam across the door opening before lifting the body off the chassis. I would also remove any excess weight from the body, like doors and rear hatch.
4ADT Roadster, 1954 --- http://www.guru-group.fi/kabu/singer
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fly4ad
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Re: Pressing on with my 4AD restoration, removing the body.

Post by fly4ad »

Thanks for the help on removing the body! After shoring up the front portion of the body to keep it from folding, and disconnecting all the essentials, I slid a 2x4 through the aft section of the rear wheel well and attached eyebolts to each end. I then clamped a short section of 2x4 with an eyebolt installed to the front lower bottom corners of the body. With ratcheting tie-down straps attached to the rafters of the shop and to the eyebolts attached to the body, we lifted the body with ease. If need be, one person could do this! Once separated, the good news is that practically all the hardwood body frame very solid. :P Most of the plywood is delaminating and needs to be replaced, but that’s easy! The underside of the body, as well as the frame seems to be in good shape with just minor surface rust.

I did find some things that do concern me:
1. The left leaf spring is very weak, is this a fix or replace item?
2. One of the shock links has been repaired, are these available for replacement? Will MG TD links work?
3. Is the fuel gage sending unit available for replacement? I think the gas left in the tank was from 1955.

I hope my lengthy posts are not a problem, please let me know and I’ll keep them short. Seems like things are a little slow on the 4s and up side.

Thanks again, If you’re interested, I’ll try to keep you posted on the progress.

Regards,
Fred
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fly4ad
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Re: Pressing on with restoration, removing the body.

Post by fly4ad »

OK, I found the thread on the tank sending unit, can anyone verify if the #11 on the schematic (P/N 361-880) is correct for a 52 4AD?

Thanks,
Fred
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