Building spark plug wires, CRACKED ENGINE BLOCK

[fly4ad]

Greeting,
I’m in the process of collecting the necessary missing items to test the engine on my recently acquired 4AD. I’m assembling a new set of spark plug wires and I’m unsure of how the distributor end of the wires are assembled. I’ve never dealt with the screw type connectors. The new distributor came 5 plastic nuts and 5 copper pieces that look like lock washers. The old wire set had a copper end that wrapped around the wire, which had a sharp center that pierced the center wire conductor. This whole thing then slid up inside the plastic nut. Can someone tell me how this end of the wire is to be assembles correctly?

Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving!

Fred

[bitsobrits]

Basically the screw cap/disc is used to press the conductor against a contact point in the distributor cap.

If the wires are solid copper strip the insulation until only about .25" of the copper conductors are exposed. Slip on the screw fitting, then slip the bare copper through the slit in the metal disk and fray the copper strands to hold it in place. Try to ensure the copper does not extend past the edges of the disk as that can compromise the ability of the screw to fully insert into the cap. Screw it into the cap (gentle hand tight) and you're done.

If the plug wires are a carbon core type, the process is basically the same, though I have found it works better to leave the exposed conductor la bit longer (maybe 3/8") and relatively straight. Hold the wire horizontal to keep the disc in place and insert into the cap and start the screw. Obviously to do this the distributor cap must be out of the car.

In both cases, when tightening the screw keep gentle pressure on the wire to keep it "bottomed" in the distributor cap and to prevent the disc from coming off the end of the wire.

When making up new plug wire sets for these types of distributor caps, I always fit the distributor cap end first, install the cap in the car, then cut the plug wires to length and terminate the plug end last.

[bitsobrits]

Just found a useful link, with photos.

http://books.google.com/books?id=9kQ941 ... es&f=false

Hope this helps.

[fly4ad]

Hi Steve,

I looked high and low on the web for info with no luck. Thanks a bunch for all your help!!! For some reason the washers that came with mine are not like the discs you describe and the ones shown on the website you found. These washer that came with my cap literally look like lock washers you would find at the hardware store. The hole in the center is much larger also. I figured it would function like a regular split lock washer, keeping the plastic nut from vibrating loose. The problem is that the washer is split the wrong way, keeping you from tightening it sufficiently. I may have to acquire something like in the photo from the web site.

Thanks again for all the help!

Fred

[FORREST]

Fred;

Steve is spot on on his assembly instructions. You are correct that your discs are wrong, they should be small round brass discs (about the same diameter as the wire) with a small hole in the middle. You should be able to get them from a good automotive store, good luck on your start up.

Forrest

ps If the engine has not run in a while I would recomend that you make sure that your cam has no rust on it and is relubed with cam run in grease. These overhead cams tend to get a little dry after setting for a long time. Also make sure that you have oil presure before starting!!

[fly4ad]

Thanks Forrest! I wasn’t going to remove the valve cover due to the obvious condition of the cover gasket, but per your recommendation I didn’t want to take the chance since I don’t know when the last time it was run. Everything under the cover was at least slightly moist, no rust at all, I added oil to the cam lobes. I did notice that the copper tube that runs to the front end of the cam had a slight wear line where in times past it may have been rubbing the chain. There is about 3/16” clearance now between the chain and the tube, I was wondering if this is enough.

Thanks again!
Fred

[BRG]

Fred,

There is a procedure in the owners manual on adjusting the upper timing chain tension. Also check the spring on the plunger adjuster and make sure it is not broken.
BRG

[FORREST]

FRED;

EVEN IF THE SPRING IS NOT BROKEN I WOULD RECOMEND REPLACING IT WITH A SQUARE CUT SPRING AVAILABLE FROM BILL HAVERLY OR PERHAPS DAVE GREEN HAS SOME. I ALSO MAKE A LONGER RETAINING CLIP TO MOVE THE TUBE MORE FORWARD TO AVOID THE CHAIN. THIS PROBLEM I THINK IS THE LARGEST DESIGN FLAW IN THE 1500 SINGER ENGINE. THE CLIP IDEA CAME FROM BILL HAVERLY AND SEEMS TO WORK JUST FINE. SINCE YOU SAID THAT YOU HAVE A COPPER TUBE AND THE ORIGINAL WAS STEEL IT HAS BEEN REPLACED AT LEAST ONCE. I KNOW THAT THIS SOUNDS LIKE ALOT OF WORK BUT IF THE TUBE FAILS YOU WILL LOSE YOUR CAM LIKE I DID.

FORREST

[fly4ad]

Thanks guys, I think for now all is OK in that area. I’ll definitely give it a closer look and replace the tube once I give the engine a try. I’m a little skeptical at this point; two of the cylinders seem low on compression. I’ve oiled them which has helped, we’ll see. I tested the ignition system, we’re good to go there!
Thanks again,
Fred

[FORREST]

FRED

ALL SYSTEMS GO WISH I COULD BE THERE TO WATCH. THIS IS THE FUN STUFF LET US KNOW WHAT HAPPENS.

FORREST

[fly4ad]

Ok, the suspense is building! Since the last post, I discovered that the valve timing was about 180 degrees out of whack (which I think was my main problem concerning my low compression issue) I’m glad I decided to check it out. Once I got my mind right as to what to do, it was an easy fix. After about 45 min of tinkering, I was back in business. I installed and timed the distributor. The beautiful carb that David Green provided is now mounted, Thanks again Dave! I installed new spark plugs and decided to see how the starter would perform with plugs installed and timing correct. Now for whatever reason, the starter will not engage. The starter motor runs but that's it. It was working fine when I initially tested it a while back. Looks like a bear to remove! Again, I'm not familiar with this starter, I'm assuming the drive end is the problem? Can it be fixed without replacing the entire starter?

Once again, thanks for all the help!!!

Fred

[mikeyr]

to repair the drive end you need to remove the starter.

1. make sure the starter drive is not stuck, try rotating the motor by hand a little bit.

2. did you remember that polarity on these toys is backwards ?

3. starter ??? these things don't need a starter !!! get out your hand crank

[Mark Thompson]

Yeah, try that crank even if you only rotate the engine a little bit, it might help. It could be a worn spot on the ring gear.

Best Wishes,

Mark Thompson

[fly4ad]

Well, here’s the latest! The starter problem turned out to be a weak battery. Apparently, if the battery isn’t up to snuff, the starter will turn but not engage.

With the starter issue resolved, all was go for a test run. After who knows how many years, the singer roared back to life. The careful setup paid off, she started and ran great. After only a few minutes of warm-up, I noticed several small leaks that would be automatically fixed when we removed the engine for detailing. Then I noticed something I had not prepared for—small droplets of coolant magically began to form on the right side of the engine block. I first thought it might have been blowback from the leaking water pump seal, but no, the block is cracked. With that said, what are my options? Can these blocks be welded reliably? Oh well, this is why I wanted to test the engine before restoration, to see exactly what I’ve got. Now I know. Any suggestions?

Fred

[mikeyr]

NO WELDING !!!

Let me repeat that NO WELDING !!!

These blocks can not be welded no matter what anyone says, they are too high in chromium and they will become brittle even if you have the blocks first heated bright red which is the correct way.

The proper way to fix it is with metal stitching, I have used these guys (on the west coast) in the past http://www.locknstitch.com/metal_stitching.htm but you can do it yourself or more likely your machinist. I used them because it was a water cooling jacket failure that was in a area too tight for me to get into and they had the machinery.

Now depending on bad the crack is and exactly where, you may get away with brazing the block but if you try welding it you will end up with a good looking repair that will work great for a few hundred or maybe a thousand miles before it starts cracking everywhere. Brazing does not get as hot and will work if the crack is totally non stressed.

Next step would be a new block