Building spark plug wires, CRACKED ENGINE BLOCK

[FORREST]

Fred;

Mike is right that welding is not an option!! Brazing has not seemed to work for me either it is not a good method to patch leaks and does not help the structure of the metal. Stiching is a great method for heads but the metal seems a little thin on the side of the block with the water jacket for this process. My engine guy and my self came up with a different fix. We drilled and pluged all of the ends of the cracks in the water jacket, we then injected under pressure (7-10 lbs.) injected a sealent that we use that we use to fix rusty water jackets and let it ooz out through the cracks. Then drained the material and let it cure. We repeated this process two more times but we never did have any more seapage through the cracks. We have run this engine in for about 4 hours and taken it through about 5 heating and cooling cycles with no leaking. It looks to be a good fix and much cheeper than stiching. I can't rember the name or brand of the sealant that we used but I am sure that I could get it for you. I don't know where you are located but my engine guy could do this for you, and the good news is that you have a nice sealed block when you are done. Don't feel alone this is a weak part of this block and I have had to do two of them already. Good luck and if I can be of any service please let me know.

Forrest

[fly4ad]

Without removing paint and getting a closer look at the block, my fear is that it has already been repaired in some fashion. It is possible that this attempt consisted of smearing some sort of sealer on the outside of the block, that would be the best-case scenario and consistent with the past owners style of maintenance. The paint seems slightly darker in that area but it's hard to tell what's under the paint. The crack seems to begin on the distributor side, about 2" below #4 spark plug and run straight forward to about the #2 plug area. I'll take a closer look later today. If someone attempted a weld repair, my assumption is that the block is ruined. Along with that, who knows what cracks exist that are internal and not visible. Do these blocks tend to just crack on the outside wall? With all that in mind, what are the chances of finding another block? If the block is not ruined, how thick is the casting in this area? The crack is not visible and barely leaks, but in 5 or 6 places where small droplets would form. Due to the crack being so tight, maybe the sealer option would work best.

Thanks again guys, your input is very much appreciated!

Fred
Atlanta GA

[mikeyr]

the sealer trick should work, I would try that one first.

As to finding a new block, only a block ? no crank, no rods, just a bare block ? bring a weedwacker next time you are in S. Calif. odds are you will find one in my yard, they are just too expensive to ship.

[fly4ad]

Hi Forrest,

I’m interested in the sealer process that you’re talking about. I assume that it’s a process that involves engine disassembly, could you give me more information on the whole deal. My leak/crack seems minor, very slow forming droplets. Do you remember the name of the product? There are also tons of “stop leak” type products that you dump in the entire cooling system, but these make me very nervous! While we’re on the subject Forrest, might you have an extra block or engine lying around? Something made me think you had an engine available at one time?

Thanks again,

Fred

[FORREST]

FRED;

YES I WOULD TEAR THE ENGINE DOWN TO FIX THIS PROBLEM. I WOULD THINK THAT THE CRACKS SHOULD BE DRILLED AND PLUGED ON THE ENDS TO KEEP THEM FROM SPREADING FURTHER. I WILL CALL MY ENGINE GUY TO SEE IF HE CAN REMEMBER WHAT THE PRODUCT WAS THAT WE USED. IT IS NOT A STOP LEEK PRODUCT BUT A WATER JACKET SEALER THAT COATS THE WHOLE WATER JACKET TO KEEP RUST FROM FORMING. I WOULD NOT GIVE UP ON YOUR BLOCK I PURCHACED ANOTHER BLOCK FOR A 4AD AND IT WAS ALSO CRACKED THIS IS THE WEAK POINT OF THIS ENGINE. OF COURSE ONCE YOU TEAR DOWN THE ENGINE YOU WILL HAVE OPENED UP THE CAN OF WORMS AND WILL MOST LIKLY BE HEADED DOWN THE ROAD OF A TOTAL ENGINE REBUILD UNLESS YOU HAVE MUCH MORE RESTRAINT THAN ME. GIVE ME A CALL ON MY CELL PHONE AND WE CAN TALK ABOUT WHAT YOU WANT, I WISH YOU WERE CLOSER SO I COULD BE OF MORE HELP BUT IT IS A LONG WAY TO MICHIGAN.

FORREST
616-638-2856
mgforrest@gmail.com

[mikeyr]

You 2 can talk on the phone (as if you need my permission) but remember there are others out there with cracked blocks that are REALLY interested in this sealer for their cracked 1.5 Litre Singer's (the green car next to my name) so keep that information coming.

[fly4ad]

OK, more bad news! After grinding away a half-pound of JB Weld looking stuff, the block has surely been welded in the past. Stick a post card to the side of the engine, weld all the way around it, and that’s what I’ve got. The gray epoxy stuff was doing a pretty good job because once I removed it, it started oozing right before my eyes. I’m guessing at this point I have only one option?

[mikeyr]

you could plate the block like we do in the pre-war Singer's. Make a metal plate that covers the crack, drill and tap the block and put the plate on, its a very ugly and permanent fix. But I would recommend a new block.

[fly4ad]

How thick does the plate need to be, and what do you use as a sealer?

[FORREST]

Fred:

I have not seen where the plate process works on these blocks. They are just too thin and the cracks just seem to keep growing and there is no good sealing surface on the side of the block. You are most likly going to have to find a new block. I do have one done at this time and it is ready for assembly I would have to see if my other block is good before I would be ready to sell.

Forrest

[FORREST]

Fred;

I have not seen any posts from you lately I was hoping to hear if you had removed all of the weld and JB weld to see what you have under the mess. I know how you feel right now and it cost me a year of feeling sorry for myself. If you cannot fix the block you should be able to find another. If you could post some pictures of the dammage we might be able to help you figure out what to do next. Keep the faith.

Forrest

[fly4ad]

OK, I thought I’d at least let you guys know I haven’t gone berserk over my cracked block issue! With the holidays and other major projects around the house, there hasn’t been much quality Singer time.
After the first initial run and discovering the leaks, I ground all the gray goop off the side of the engine and decided to give it one more run to see exactly what I’ve got. For whatever reason, I couldn’t get her started. At the first run, I remember having a harder time starting it after it warmed up a bit. I have spark and fuel but all I could get is backfiring through the carb. The ignition timing seemed in check with the crank, maybe something jumped time on the top end? It ran great the first time out, I’ll have to give it a closer look.
I do think I’ve figured out a plate repair that won’t require fasteners. I work with some high quality, high strength, high temp, aircraft sealer that I think will work great. The idea is to stop the leak and dampen the block to keep the repaired area structurally sound such that it won’t continue to crack. I’ll fill you in when I try it out. Ideally, I would much rather find another block, a little closer to home.

Have a great day!
Fred