Blown Head Gasket!

[Mark Thompson]

I'm in the process of replacing my head gasket on my 52 4AD. Does anyone have any recommendations on a sealant, gasket adhesive, heat transfer mastic, shellac, copper coat, etc....., that they have sucessfully used when replacing a head gasket. This is my second head gasket repalcement in 10 years and 18,000 miles. I realize that these gaskets are N.O.S (really old) but I would hope to get more miles out of a head gasket. Any tips or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Note: I use 65 ft.-lbs. and the proper tightening sequence

Also, any thoughts on the assembly of the head side paneI/exhaust manifold/thermostat housing. These seem to develop coolant leaks prematurely as well. I know Singer's are notorious for leaking, or marking their territory as most British cars do, but this has been a repeat problem for me as well.

Just trying to keep it on the road....
Best Regards,
Mark Thompson

[Stephen]

Hi Mark .. heres an article from the Singer Wheels, the official Singer car club of Australia, that may or may not help you .. if you need to know more you can contact Trevor Leech the President who may be able to put you in touch with John .. Trevor's email is trevor9999@tpg.com.au
[img=http://s29.postimg.org/se2onjpyr/001.jpg]

[img=http://s29.postimg.org/kp5ubtpgz/002.jpg]

I hope these turn out as I always have difficulty in uploading photos..
Stephen

[mikeyr]

there was a place headgaskets_com who had new manufacture head gaskets but they are no longer around. The domain now points to a redirect to advertising junk. I had 2 of them at one time and they looked pretty good, the people I sold them to have had no issues that I know of. It might be worth a shot to see if headgaskets_com was purchased by someone who still has the pattern (I don't recommend going to the website as it is now however).

I do see the articles posted in the above message. PM me with your image attachment issues, lets get those resolved.

[bitsobrits]

Mark,

A recurring head gasket issue is most likely due to other factors such as a warped head or uneven upper block surface. A careful check with a proper straightedge can check the block. With the head off, a machine shop can check that for you. Other possible causes might be incorrect or previously overtorqued (past yield strength) head bolts. Check the head bolt shanks for any sign of distortion. Also worth a look to ensure the head bolt holes in the block are completely clean as crud in the holes could prevent the bolts from threading in completely. As noted in the article, these engines are very low stressed, so should not be subject to head gasket problems.

In the past I have had head gaskets made for obscure engines by having them cut from dead soft copper on a water jet. A bit pricey as it takes some time for the water jet programmer to measure up the old gasket and produce the code to make the new one. Perhaps we should looks at this as a club to have several sets made?

As for the side panel, I had the same issues exacerbated by heavy corrosion on the side panel. After sandblasting the panel, I filled the corrosion pits with JB weld, sanded flat, and painted with engine enamel. Then I made up a new gasket (from a blank roll obtained at NAPA) that I then smeared very lightly with silicone on both sides and allowed it to dry off the car. Once dry I again did a very light smear of silicone and fitted the side panel. No more leaks, 8 years and counting.

[BRG]

I second all that Steve W said.
Also I have always used a couple coats of Copper Coat sealant on the head gasket.
The sealing of the side plate use a good soft 1/16" thick gasket paper and the RIGHT STUFF gasket sealant/maker sold by Permatex.

BRG

[Mark Thompson]

Thanks for the suggestions!
I assembled the side plate using Permatex high-temperature red silicone sealant. I used copper coat for the exhaust manifold and head gaskets. In the past, I have installed the head without the exhaust manifold attached. This time I installed the exhaust manifold at the same time as the side plate and let the silicone cure for a week before installing the assembly. This applied more uniform pressure to the side plate while it was curing. I then installed the head and exhaust manifold as a complete assembly.

When I fired it up white smoke (steam) again billowed out of the exhaust pipe, dripping water as well. I thought, I must have a cracked head. I waited a few days and decided to check the compression. I let the engine run a few minutes to heat up. Compression was good and all cylinders were within a 5 psi range. No fluid leaks on the head or side plate! In preparing to pull the head, I again started the car to turn it around to make it easier to access the engine compartment when I noticed that the white smoke (steam) had stopped coming out of the exhaust pipe. I drove the car about five miles and still no smoke. I have since driven the car about 100 miles with no smoke and no leaks.

I suppose the white smoke was the result of an accumulation of water in the muffler while the head was previously leaking. Once it burned off, the smoking stopped. I was very close to pulling the head again and having it checked for cracks.

Any other thoughts or theories?

Mark Thompson

[bitsobrits]

Mark,

I think you are spot on with your theory about previous coolant in the exhaust. It's also possible you had a leak that sealed itself after the first heat/cooling cycle, but that seems pretty unlikely.

So if it's not smoking and not losing coolant then I would enjoy the car. If something turns out to be wrong later, the car will certainly let you know! Seriously, I wouldn't worry.