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1934 Windscreen Posts / staunchness

Posted: Mon May 15, 2017 12:50 am
by DarcyG
I have need of at least one right windscreen post for an 1934 LM )13 5/8 top to bottom). Can anyone assist? i don't need the knobs, just the post.

I also have available to swap or sell a left hand post (14 1/4 inches top to bottom) that I believe is from a larger Singer LM 6??? It is exactly the same style as the 34 LM, but larger as the size above suggests. See photos

Re: 1934 Windscreen Posts / staunchness

Posted: Thu May 18, 2017 4:26 am
by Phillip
Hey Darcy,

The larger windshield post you have is for an early Roadster - R or A series up to 1949.

The 'eyelet' on the upper section is the giveaway...it's the pivot for the side screen.

Hope that helps!

Cheers,
Phillip

Re: 1934 Windscreen Posts / staunchness - details needed

Posted: Sat Jul 15, 2017 6:59 am
by DarcyG
Can anyone provide me with photos and or measurements of parts C and E in 82 attached. I need to make them and just need some guidance. Thanks

Re: 1934 Windscreen Posts / staunchness

Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 4:32 am
by mikeyr
if my car has them (I will look in the morning) I can take detailed measurements for you, or I can "loan" you one and you can take your own measurements, just not sure I have them on my car.

Re: 1934 Windscreen Posts / staunchness

Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2017 8:43 am
by casadecabra
Hello Darcy
I recently restored the windscreen posts/pivots for my 1934 Le Mans 9. A couple of images of the original parts and some working sketches I made are attached. I needed to hand fettle the parts as I went along, especially to ensure that the tabs on the upper arms were a good fit in the locking plates, so please regard my sketches as a guide only. As the original knurled nuts were missing I purchased a pair from the Hardwicks. One puzzle is that there is not enough clearance between the lock plates and the knurled nuts for a coil spring as shown in Dave Hardwick's sketch. I think I have solved this by making conical springs from 19 SWG piano wire (see photo), but I haven't tested this in anger yet. Dave's notes described the pivot shaft being fixed to the pedestal by a brass weld - not ideal when everything has been chrome plated! I'm thinking of trying bearing fit loctite.

Hope this helps - let me know if you need any more information.

Best wishes
Dave Bayliss

Re: 1934 Windscreen Posts / staunchness

Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2017 8:46 am
by casadecabra
Sorry - forgot pictures of original parts.
David

Re: 1934 Windscreen Posts / staunchness

Posted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 1:06 pm
by DarcyG
Brilliant, justt what i needed thanks

Re: 1934 Windscreen Posts / staunchness

Posted: Sun Sep 03, 2017 4:00 am
by davida
Hi

That windscreen post will also fit a 1935 LM four seater.
How much do you want for it?

Re: 1934 Windscreen Posts / staunchness

Posted: Wed Sep 06, 2017 9:14 pm
by DarcyG
casadecabra wrote:Hello Darcy
I recently restored the windscreen posts/pivots for my 1934 Le Mans 9. A couple of images of the original parts and some working sketches I made are attached. I needed to hand fettle the parts as I went along, especially to ensure that the tabs on the upper arms were a good fit in the locking plates, so please regard my sketches as a guide only. As the original knurled nuts were missing I purchased a pair from the Hardwicks. One puzzle is that there is not enough clearance between the lock plates and the knurled nuts for a coil spring as shown in Dave Hardwick's sketch. I think I have solved this by making conical springs from 19 SWG piano wire (see photo), but I haven't tested this in anger yet. Dave's notes described the pivot shaft being fixed to the pedestal by a brass weld - not ideal when everything has been chrome plated! I'm thinking of trying bearing fit loctite.

Hope this helps - let me know if you need any more information.

Best wishes
Dave Bayliss

I made the disks and now realise that the position of the pivot shaft that have to be brazed in place is critical to the alignment. These are next on my list to make, so I will ensure the brazed end is slightly longer to ensure correct alignment and then cut back once fixed. The spring is still a quandry, I may need to make one also. I was also thinking of loctite - has it worked for you?

Re: 1934 Windscreen Posts / staunchness

Posted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 1:14 pm
by casadecabra
Sorry Darcy - I haven't reached the stage yet where I can fit the windscreen. Hopefully within another month... or two... or three... I'll let you know when I reach that stage, if you haven't beaten me to it.
Regards
David Bayliss

Re: 1934 Windscreen Posts / staunchness

Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2018 5:33 pm
by cdk84
Happy New Year, Dave!

Have you yet reached a point of trial fitting your windscreen?

Inquiring minds want to know [what you have discovered about the fit and function of the windscreen locking mechanism, and the way it works with the spring you so creatively made]. Excellent work.

Hope the year is off to a great start for you.

Very Best,

David

Re: 1934 Windscreen Posts / staunchness

Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2018 9:04 pm
by DarcyG
Hi, away from home at present but this is the status:
. Made new internal parts
. I tried to make springs but gave up, after much searching i found the last two at a spring manufacturer - cone springs, still need some modification but seem to work on the bench
. I gave up trying to get a local person to make a new screen, even from old 4A brass units. I bought steel unit from UK and while it fits well I am not happy with the steel - it fits but still needs cleaning up before chroming.
. I bought the screen unit with the waiper motor on top as I realsied I could not have botton mounted motor and Brookland screens in my car (which I already had)
. I had to heat and remover old broken studs and then make new studs.
. I thought I had a fitting but then realsied I need to have the metal cowling skin on first plus rubber gasget to get correct positioning. So as I am not quiet ready for the full skin I have just completed a temp cowling cover and when I get home I should be able to fit the whole unit and drill the holes.
. To enable positioning I have made up a template of the bottom the staunchens with the hole locations (will also help to make new rubber gasget). Remove the two bolts from each staunchen. Mount the windscreen to the stunchens and lock in upright position. Once two people have the screen in position with gasket material between stuchen and skin, mark the outline of the staunchen on the skin and then use your template to mark hole locations. Then try and align a power drill to the right angle and drill. This approach does work as I first had a trial fitting that turned out to be in the wrong position. At that stage I did not realise that allowing for the skin and gasget moves the screen position some 1-2 inches further towards the back. One creates the instructional for the rebuild as yoiu go.
. When I get a final mounted position I will have new centre studs I made for each staunchen brased into their locked position.

It is that simple? I will add soem photos soon.

Re: 1934 Windscreen Posts / staunchens

Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 7:06 am
by DarcyG
OK, I have never used a lath before - these were my first attempts at making anything comples and I am happy. I am not a tradesman but banking / IT background. I used steel initially for the spindle but found that too difficult for a beginer so I then decided on brass (from a 1/2 bolt). It will also be easier for me to braize the endd shaft when everything is lined up. I have also included a photo of the my first attempt to mock up a cowling. It is not final as I need to shrink along the bonet edge, but it is close. Once fitted I will attempt to mount the windscreen.

Re: 1934 Windscreen Posts / staunchness

Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 5:10 pm
by mikeyr
very well done...wish I was that bad on a lathe