Web Forum for Singer Cars

I am endeavouring to rebuild the steering wheel assembly. I have:
. A new wheel
. Centre boss casting from late Dave Hardwick, very pours and not a quality item
. The centre tube from the steering column with the head that takes three nuts and bolts to hold the top wheel centre and horn assembly

Believe it or not I have two columns but not one full, functional unit.

What I don't have is a photo or any idea of what the horn assembly / plate component looks like, other than it is round, has three matching holes and horn pressure mechanism in the centre. I am assuming three countersunk bolts go through the top wheel centre, through the horn plate and then attach to the column plate ( ignoring the lever that adjusts lights etc as this is on an inner tube).

If any one has photos, or even better a spare horn plate, or ideas they would be greatly appreciated.

This might help. it is part G in the attached drawing (second drawing) that I am missing and beyond this drawing I have no details of what it ooks or what to look for.

I will take some pics tonight when I get home. Again, just like the SLC2 switch I have 2 broken/bent ones to create one good with.

Hail Fellow Pre-Warriors!

I have three good switches and all the components to make up the assemblies for my '33 and '34 Sports. My '36 LM-SS has the PLC switch on the dash - a much simpler method!

My problem is the time to get photos done! Traveling for work this week, but if the info will be of use, I will try and post photos of the components when I get some breathing time!

Great, thanks.

I'm trying to remove the horn push and light switch cover (parts A and B in Darcy G's diagram) to remove the steering wheel and do some work on the steering column. Does anybody know the trick to removing them safely?

I'm reluctant to apply much force as they are probably brittle and hard to replace.

Thanks
1933 Singer 9 Sports

Hey Jack,

The horn cover is held on by three small slotted set screws on the back side of the top flange. These screw into three captive nuts in the bakelite horn cover. Many people try to prise off the cover, which breaks out the captive nuts. I have seen a few with screws right through the horn cover to be able to attach it again. The captive nuts on my '34 Sports were knurled brass and had come loose, so the cover slid off quite easily.

You need to remove the SLC2 switch at the bottom of the column and undo the retaining nut for the stator tube. Unscrew the tube and slide it up the column enough to allow access to the set screws holding the bakelite cover. They may have locking tabs if they are original and have not been disturbed - unlikely as this is a part of the car very often broken or missing!

If you need to remove the steering wheel, you will need to completely remove the stator tube assembly.

Hope that helps!

Cheers,
Phillip

Phillip
Thanks for the advice.... job done in 5 minutes; all was exactly as you described. The whole stator was pretty stiff to extract and all three locking tabs are in place - so who knows how long it's been since it was last apart. A good clean before reassembly will do it good.

Thanks again!

My pleasure sir!

Yeah...the old '30's grease can get very hard and goopy!. Regreasing the outer stator tube is important as it is fixed Inside the column and the coloumn rotâtes around it.

Is your car the early type Nine Sports with the helmet front wings? I have one also!

Cheers,
Phillip

Yes it's an early one. Chassis No. 45065, Registered Dec 1932