Web Forum for Singer Cars

Thanks, I had seen this type of fitting years ago, but the Hardwick guards and the roadster design do not allow. See below - this is one of the original guards with the clip clearly shown, but this metal section is not on the reproduction guards as can be seen on the above side view. The red line sh...

Thanks, that makes sense, I have not got as far as fitting the bonnet or latches yet. For that matter I am not sure now were the rear latch attaches. Today I managed to “dry” fit the front wings and aprons, tomorrow I hope to clean up some of the Hardwick build for a custom fit and start drilling so...

A silly question really, but I am about to attach the bracket in the red circle, (this from the original car as it came to me). It can go two ways, bend in or out. Browsing through my many photos it appears to be in or out on many cars, but dare I ask, which is correct. It is obviously to stop the b...

Thanks, I may have to back to the drawing board but this is what I made up based on earlier photo and fitted today. At this point in slipped in easily. Tomorrow I will tackle the instrument ends, I can then at least do a static test of the tacho. I did not include the extended support, if needed i c...

Thanks, mine is the same cable but without that brass attachment. But if all you use is this piece what holds the cable in place? For the speedo there is a locking bolt that uses the yolk on the cable end to keep it in place. The brass section in your photo appears to be just a section of plate with...

Does anyone have a photo, or dare I ask a spare, of the piece that attaches the tacho drive cable to the bottom of the distributor housing?

If I can’t locate one I can probably make one but I have no idea what it looks like or how the tacho cable is held in place?

See http://penriteclassicoils.co.uk/

Gee...I am glad you will never be a show judge on my Australian customisation...

Does this help, I have others but have to leave for a funeral, let me know. I found the “lucas” colors did vary from year to model but as long as you know your code that is all that matters. Somewhere on the net and somewhere in my papers is the “ official” Lucas code list

Thanks everyone, I was originally going to use slides but it is not to late to go back to the original design. Restoration is never straight forward, especially when you don’t have all the original bits!

Thanks, I need to re-think my design, I think thinner in the rear with no more than 3” in the front but using firmer cushion material. The base needs to be longer than 17” to give thigh support, but still allow legs to fit under the steering wheel.

Any other 6’ drivers with seat details / sizes?

Thanks Phillip. The front seat cushion appears to be a flat, ie not shaped like one above? If so any idea on the original thickness?

Brian thanks for your photos. I had planned on making mine slightly longer for extra thigh support as I am 6 foot. They will also be on slides to extend backwards.

Phillip, yes that would be a great help. I am not sure if it helps from a comfort perspective to slope to the back or not. The “original Australian” seats were more like a slab, about 4” all around.

Nearly all the photos I have collected appear to have 8 pleats, but some have 9 as per above.

Hi, I am working on the basis that the front seat squabs had 8 two inch pleats (finished size). On this basis the width of the seat should be 16inches ie from inside piped edge to inside piped edge. Can someone give me an idea of the length, front to back, inside piped edges? Thanks in advance. I wi...