Web Forum for Singer Cars

I finally took down the bonnet halves that have been hanging on the garage wall for the last 30 years and fitted them to the new hinge that is back from the platers. The new wings have been in my mother-in-laws spare bedroom and various other houses for a similar length of time. The running boards w...

First of all, let me apologise. The pre-war ac petrol gauge requires a 0-30 ohm sender not 60 ohms as I posted earlier. There is some confusion though, as I have a later ac gauge without the Singer logo that works with 0-60 ohms. I suspect that should be 0-90 ohms. That would bring it into line with...

Thats the tricky part. The winding needs to be close-wound so that the wiper slides over it smoothly. My first attempt was too spaced out. It required about 90 turns to get to 60 ohms and when spread out over the full length of the armature it was a bit rough. I have ordered some 0.25mm dia resistan...

This is my first attempt at rewinding the 'rheostat' inside the petrol gauge sender. I'm not happy with it and have ordered some more wire to have another go. The resistance is 60 ohms. I should have enough wire for three parts. If anyone wants one let me know. Regards Brian

Hi Neil, My only suggestion is that when you are nose-up the fuel pump has to work a lot harder to fetch fuel from the back of the car. There may be air getting into the fuel line and the engine is running lean. Try a bit of transparent fuel hose to the carburetters and see if there are any bubbles....

I took the noisy box out today and had a look inside. It seems the ball races are making the noise - the top front one in particular but the back one seems very stiff. Fortunately, they seem to be widely available, so as soon as the bank holiday is over I will get them ordered. I had a look at the b...

Work on the '35 four-seater has taken a turn for the worse. I got as far as fitting a seat and driving around the yard, but the noise coming from the gearbox has me searching through my old gearbox spares to see what I have. The bronze bush top right is the original part that has the flange broken. ...

After two weekends with the jig saw, I finally got it all together:

Thanks Colin. I was inspired by your project and some of the comments from others on this forum. The photos and drawings of original parts has been really helpful. I plan to publish the patterns for the footwell as soon as I have some time.
Brian

I got bored with the football and decided to tackle the footwell on my '35 longtail. After I removed some of the fiberglass from previous repairs, this is what was left: 20180522_173631 - Copy - Copy - Copy - Copy (4).jpg It looks like the original is spot-welded, but as I had some lead-coated steel...

The bidding got close to my limit. I missed the last Prima jack that went for £246, and the one before that was withdrawn. I was determined not to be caught out this time by the smart-arsed bidder who likes to bid with 10 seconds to go! Up until then the bidding was at £155. So what price for a repl...

I was considering making a replica - I still might now that I will have one to copy. Maybe when I have finnished restoring the '35 four seater. Progress so far:

My jack was stolen fifty years ago and I have been searching for one ever since. At last, it looks like I will have one to fit that 'T' shaped slot in the tool deck. A bit more expensive than I would have liked, but it's only money! - The automatic bidder.

I am thinking of going forward with making some of the parts for the SLC2 switch, any demand out there for it ? Hi Mikeyr, I followed this thread with interest as my restoration of a '35 longtail is at the re-wiring stage. I am an electronic engineer and I am facinated by the SLC2 switch and was dr...